Ask The Expert: The Science Of Sourdough

Andrew Schoeffield, Ph.D., ’82, is an associate professor of biology at Loyola with a passion for baking bread. His expertise in microbiology gives him a unique perspective on the science behind fermentation and the art of bread-making.

What inspired you to start baking bread, and why do you love it?

I read Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma years ago when it was Loyola’s first-year common text. I was intrigued! From there, I read his other books, including The Botany of Desire, Cooked, and In Defense of Food. Those books made me rethink what I considered food and what I want to put into my body.

What is your favorite bread to make?

My favorite bread to bake is the one that puts a smile on the face of someone else. There is magic in making something as basic as a loaf of bread and gifting it to someone. You are gifting your expertise, your time, your care, a little bit of love, and, of course, a delicious loaf of bread.

What is microbiology?

Microbiology is the study of microorganisms. Generally, people think of bacteria when considering what a microorganism is. However, microbiology encompasses the study of fungi, algae, protists, and even viruses, which, by definition, are not “organisms” at all.

Microbiology baking tip: Remember, yeast are microorganisms. Be true to your yeast—give them a home and nourish them—and they will nourish you right back!

Do you see any parallels between the science of bread-making and your work in microbiology?

Bread-making involves a great deal of science, though you don’t need to understand the science to make great bread. A bread dough is a living and respiring entity, teeming with life. Understanding how those organisms do their “thing” is certainly helpful, but not an absolute necessity. That said, great bakers demonstrate the same desirable traits of scientists. These include a knack for making careful observations, performing many repetitions, and having a willingness to adjust their bread “experiments” when the results were not as expected.

How do you encourage STEM students to find interdisciplinary connections like the one between bread and biology?

I am constantly talking with my classes about the connections between everything. My life is a (relatively) open book, and I share the stories of that book with my students. I think that it’s easier for students to find interdisciplinary connections in their lives when that thought process is modeled for them. I try to discuss how important it is to care for ourselves, to care for others, and to constantly and consistently search for beauty in the simple things in life. It’s important that we pay attention to the data of our lives, remember our own stories, write our own books, and share our books with others.

If you could teach a class combining biology and baking, what would it look like, and what lessons would you hope students take away?

Such a course would link the science of cooking/baking and an understanding of why we do what we do in the kitchen. The textbook would be The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt, and the class would feature plenty of hands-on “experiments.” I’d like the course to instill a sense of “yes, I can” when it comes to cooking. More importantly, I’d want to instill the value of a well-cooked dish—not just the health benefits, but also the sense of community that comes with a shared meal.

Cheddar – Cheddar Jalapeno Bread Recipe

Ingredients

• 7 ounces (1 1/2 cups) King Arthur Bread Flour (200 g)
• 3 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) King Arthur Whole Wheat flour (100 g)
• 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal Kosher flake salt (or 3/4 teaspoon of standard table salt) (5 g)
• 1/3 cup pickled jalapeno slices (drained, patted dry and rough chopped)
• 1/3 cup extra sharp cheddar cheese (cubed 1/8 x 1/4 x 1/4 inches)
• 1/2 teaspoon Red Star Active Dry yeast
• 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons room temperature water (210 g) (70% bakers hydration)
• 1 tablespoon of neutral oil such as canola or grapeseed
• 1/2 cup finely shredded mild or sharp cheddar cheese

Directions

1. In a bowl (preferably with lid) add bread flour, whole wheat flour, salt, chopped jalapenos, and cubed cheddar cheese and mix well with a fork; add dry yeast and mix well.
2. Add water and mix for about 1 minute with a 1/2-inch wooden dowel (or the handle end of a wooden spoon–it makes mixing so easy!); wet your hand and vigorously shake off the excess water; massage the dough for about 1 minute, only long enough that no dry flour remains. Cover loosely with the lid (or plastic wrap if you are using a bowl without a lid).
3. After 10-20 minutes knead and fold the dough for 1 minute; cover loosely; after an additional 10-20 minutes knead and fold the dough for 1 minute; cover loosely.
4. Let the dough develop for 8-10 hours (winter house temperature 65 degrees F) (4-6 hours at 70 degrees F house temperatures) (It is not recommended that you proof in an oven at higher temperatures.)
5. Remove the dough from your bowl and form into an oblong loaf; place the loaf onto parchment paper on top a wooden cutting board or peel; cover your loaf with the bowl that it was mixed in and allow to rise at room temperature 1 to 2 hours until doubled in size.
6. Preheat your oven and a baking steel* to 425 degrees F.
7. After it has risen, brush the loaf with the neutral oil, score the loaf (about a 1/2-inch deep with 3 diagonal marks) and evenly sprinkle the shredded cheddar cheese on top. The oil will help the cheese to stick better.
8. Bake directly on the baking steel for 10 minutes; reduce oven temperature to 400 degrees F and bake an additional 10 minutes or until the cheese topping is golden brown and the internal temperature of the bread is 190 degrees F.
9. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes before enjoying.